![]() ![]() Set to HI for clearance and spray the fittings with soapy water to check for leaks. Fire up the engine and set to “normal” height. Reattach wheels and stuff and get that puppy back on the ground. Reattach all the air lines back to the chassis clips. It actually wan’t too hard but again you can’t see anything and you have no room to work so its kind stabbing in the dark. Line up the alignment and attachment nubs to the perch and seat the top of the spring in the perch. Jack up the axle to take up the slack of the empty springs so the tops of the air springs get close to their top perch. they are keyed to hold the bottom of the spring in place.unless you are using stock replacements which aren’t for some reason. Starting with the drivers side reattach the airline in the top of the spring by simply pushing it in, then loosely place the spring in the area it should go with the airline routed through the correct hole in the perch. Disconnect the airline from the spring using the sprinkler line, remember that the pawls are at 12-6 not 3-9 so put the sprinkler line cut 90 degrees from 12 or 6 oclock. Careful with these lines, the passenger side one is $90 and the drivers is $60 and no one stocks them. Instead of struggling, disconnect anywhere the air line attaches to the chassis via clips, from the valve block back to the spring and pull the air spring out with the air line attached (drivers side) or enough so you can gain access to the top of the spring (passenger side) without hurting the line. First you will NEVER get to the airline from the top. This isn’t wrong, but it isn’t the whole story. In the Guide provided by Arnott they tell you disconnect the airline on the top of the spring at this point. Fortunately it doesn’t take a lot to move it. The gap with which to work in, especially on the passenger side, is slim at best and there is no back side access. ![]() ![]() There is a hole on the 90 degree bend for a pick, or you can get a grip on that bend with pliers like I did. This clip (in orange) retains the top of the spring in the perch by sliding around a nub on the top of the spring. It takes practice and your hands will be sore.but its the only way I know without the SST. Toyota also says to replace these o-rings, which if you can see and read this diagram it doesn’t seem to be possible, so I didn’t. In the case of the valve block, the pawls are at 3 and 9, in the case of the fitting on the spring, they are at 12 and 6. the split in the line should be 90 degrees off the pawl. Another tip I learned is that orientation maters. A tip I picked up is to slim the thickness of the line down by heating a section of the line so it thins out, then cut it where its been stretched then, use the thick end where it works and the thin end everywhere else. Cut a section a couple inches long and split lengthwise and it will go over the line and do the job. Solution? 1/4 inch hard sprinkler drip line (again, thanks langsen). The idea is pretty simple - You need to a tool to go around the airline and between the pawls (connector No. 2" is what is forced apart by the tool, there are 2 pawls 180 degrees apart from one another and they expand into the holes shown in the picture above. Take off the air lines for the side you are replacing (or both), the axle will want to drop, but you supported it. Support the axle with a jack at the differential Take off both rear wheels and put them under the chassis for added safety. block the front wheels and jack up the rear until you have lots of room to work, you will need it. Long angled needle nose pliers or a strong pick set This is what typically happens with these bags, especially in hot dry places like Utah. I do have pictures though, taken from the Arnott installation guide and the FSM. Replaced the air springs on my '08 GX470 last night with Arnott bags (Part A-2949) and I thought you would enjoy a writeup on how I did it, what I learned and how it went.įirst, I apologize for the lack of pics, I had thought about doing a video edit of the whole thing, but I was VERY tired and this needed to get done. ![]()
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